Cleaning A Wood Cutting Board With Kosher Salt And Lemon
The best way to maintain your wood cutting board is to give it a good cleaning every month with kosher salt and lemon.
Take a lemon and cut it in half. Sprinkle the board with coarse salt and use the lemon to scrub the salt down each side of the board. Let the solution sit for about five minutes before cleaning the board off with a sponge.
Store fruit like berries and grapes in glass jars in the fridge. They will last much longer.
1. Pick an unblemished coconut shell with no noticeable cracks. The beautiful thing about using a coconut shell to make a bowl is that you can make a bowl of any size. For a smaller bowl, simply pick a smaller coconut. For a larger bowl, grab a bigger one.
If there are cracks, they’ll just get larger and more pronounced as you smooth and sand the shell.
2. Drain the liquid from the coconut and split it in half. Grab a bowl, a cutting board, a hammer, and a screwdriver. Tap the screwdriver through the eyes of the coconut and drain the liquid into the bowl.
Then, strike the coconut with the hammer all the way around its hemisphere until a crack starts to form. Keep hammering the coconut until the crack is large enough for you to pull the coconut apart.
3. Pry the coconut meat away from the shell so the inside is smooth.
This sounds harder than it is! Wedge a butter knife between the shell and the coconut meat and wiggle it back and forth until the meat begins to come away from the shell. It might take a while to do the entire coconut, but it’s an essential part of the process.
Be careful while doing this. Try holding the coconut shell in your non-dominant hand so you can wield the butter knife with more control.
4. Remove the fibrous exterior of the coconut with 80-grit sandpaper.
If possible, attach a sanding flap wheel to a drill to make the process go faster—it can take quite a while to sand the shell down by hand. Make sure to wear a dust mask and gloves while you work! If you don’t have a drill and sanding flap wheel, a few other alternatives are listed below for you:
5. Sand the exterior of the shell by hand to a smooth finish. Hold the shell in a gloved hand so that if the sandpaper slips, it won’t rough up your skin. Since you already used 80-grit sandpaper, move on to something higher, like 100-grit for the first pass-over. Continue using finer and finer grits of sandpaper until ending at 240-grit.
For example, you could go from 100-grit to 120-grit to 240-grit.
The goal is to expose the smooth, polished shell beneath the fibrous exterior.
6. Rub the edge of the shell over 40-grit sandpaper to even it out. The edge of your coconut shell might not be completely even and might have a few jagged sections. Place a piece of 40-grit sandpaper on your workstation, place the shell cut-side-down on it, and rub it back and forth until the edge is smooth to the touch.
This process makes your bowls look much more professional and polished once they’re done.
7. Sketch your design on the outside of the shell so it’s easy to follow. You can always freestyle your carvings, but if you want something intricate, it’s best to follow an outline. Use a pencil or pen—basically anything that will be visible without permanently marring the shell's surface.[12] You could also print a design on paper and tape it to the outside of the shell. If you do this, take a precision knife and cut the paper away in the spots you want the shell carved. In this way, you make your own stencil.
Keep in mind that coconut shells are really thin. You may not be able to carve it the same way you might traditionally carve a piece of wood.
Think about using small holes to create different designs, like swirls, geometric patterns, or even faces or words.
8. Use a power drill or dremel to carve your bowl’s design. With a dremel, you can usually carve a design into the shell without going all the way through. Just be conscious of how deep you’re carving, so you don’t accidentally break through. Use a small bit on a drill to make delicate holes through the shell.
9. Add decorative elements to the edge of the shells with a file. For example, file a “V” shape into the edge of the shell every 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) to resemble flower petals.[15] You can use flat, rounded, circular, or triangular files on a coconut shell. Be careful working with metal files. They can be very sharp!
10. Paint your bowls with acrylic paint if you want to add color to them. Acrylic paint is an excellent choice for coconut shells because it dries quickly.
11. Polish your carved bowls with beeswax for a natural shine. Put a little beeswax on a clean rag and rub it all over the shell. Reapply wax to the rag when it gets dry, and continue buffing the shell until it has an even shine all over. You can reapply beeswax as needed to keep your carved shell looking nice.
12. Apply a coat of varnish if you want your bowls to have a glossy finish. Use a clear varnish if you want the shell’s color to shine through, or use a colored varnish for a deeper shine. Let the varnish dry completely before moving the shell. If the shell is to hold food or drink, don’t apply varnish or wax on the inside. Do this step in a well-ventilated area. Varnish can produce some pretty strong fumes!
Dry your bowls in the sun until they’re no longer tacky. The heat from the sun will help the wax or varnish dry faster. Once the bowls are no longer sticky or tacky to the touch, you can move them.
What you will need:
• 30cl glass
• Wick and wick stick um
• Wick centering tool
• Kerasoy container wax
• Chip or liquid dye in 5 colours
• Aluminium wax scoop
• Digital kitchen scales
• Digital LCD Thermometer
• Pouring jug
• Pan and glass bowl or double boiler
Tip!
A 30 cl glass will hold around 220g of wax, split this between your 5 colours, that will be around 44 grams of wax per colour layer.
Steps to success:
1. Get yourself a 30 cl glass and ensure that it’s clean and dry before use
2. Add your wick to the bottom of the glass using a wick stick um to secure it in place
3. Using the double boiler method to melt your wax, fill your pan around halfway with boiling water and place on a hob or hotplate
4. Using your aluminium scoop and digital scales, weigh out 44 grams of wax and place into a glass bowl
5. Place your bowl of wax on top of your pan and add a thermometer to measure the temperature of the wax as it heats
6. Keep your pan on a medium to low heat and remember to not let your wax exceed 80°C
7. Once your wax is melted, add your chosen colour, you can use chip or liquid dye
8. Add a few droplets liquid dye or a small sprinkle of dye chips and mix gently until the colour has spread evenly, feel free to add more drops or chips if you want a stronger colour
9. Transfer your melted wax into your pouring jug
10. Slowly and gently pour your wax into your candle glass to create your first layer
11. Use a wick centering tool to secure the wick and ensure it is suspended tight and upright
12. Leave the candle to set for 1 – 2 hours before pouring in your next colour
13. Repeat for each colour until you reach 1cm from the top of your glass
14. Save any left-over wax to repeat your pour if you get sinkholes on your last layer
15. Let your candle set completely
16. Trim your wick to size
Source: Supplies for candles
1. Go to the woods. Bring a cone.🌲🌲🌲
2. Put the cone in a pot - so that most of it stands out.
3. Pour it every day with a small amount of water, as excess water makes the cones rot.
4. After some time, a tiny tree will appear.
5. Congratulations - they just started oxygen production and you have a piece of forest in your own home.🍁🍂🍃.
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| STICK THE STEMS OF THE CORIANDER THROUGH A COLANDER |
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| PULL THE STEM OUT. THE LEAFS WILL STAY BEHIND |
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| CUT THE TOP OFF AND PEEL ONE SEGMENT OFF |
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| PLACE A PLASTIC FOOD BAG OR CLING FILM OVER IT TO KEEP FRESH |
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| PLACE HARD BOILED EGGS INTO A CONTAINER |
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| POUR COLD WATER OVER THE EGGS |
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| CLOSE THE LID |
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| SHAKE IT HARD FOR A BIT |
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| PEEL IT OFF |
